Tuesday, October 14, 2014

The Sheep Heid Inn- Ages of Edinburgh

            After much traveling and a busy school schedule my friends and I decided to meet up for a nice dinner on Wednesday. Where to go, but a place nestled along Arthur’s Seat and a local keepsake of Scottish tradition. The Sheep’s Heid Inn is the oldest pub, restaurant and inn in Edinburgh. It certainly lives up to its historical reputation. This inn is decorated with all sorts of medieval swords and daggers, wood carved clocks and royal portraits. Dark wood floors and tables compliment the soft green and blue hues of the plaid carpet and chairs. The soft patterns and shades warm the rooms. At this inn, I felt as though I was peaking into centuries of Scotland’s past preserved by the innkeepers and local patrons. The rooms held a certain festive ambiance and seasonal character. From the mirrors hung red, green and gold reefs in anticipation for the Christmas season while the menu reflected the tastes of fall. These seasonal smells and colors melted together to bear the image of a cozy cottage tucked just outside the hustle the city. In a warm wool sweater and a cup of cocoa, this is the place I would find myself and villagers from centuries past who come to think and ponder the wonders of Edinburgh.
The Sheep Heid Inn is a cozy white stucco and dark wooden cottage nestled on the corner of the road. I love the Sheep signage hanging over the title. It really adds a local and village feel to this tucked away secret place.
            Gathered around the dining table, we all ordered savory Scottish dishes and caught up on our recent adventures abroad. Later, we enjoyed a taster plate of Scottish deserts such as warm apple pie and Cherry Cheesecake. In this moment, I felt completely warmed and welcomes. This night was a bond between all of my favorite things in life- food, friends and stories. There is no better place to experience such wonders than a cozy night at a traditional Scottish pub.
Our delightful deserts! The taster platter came with so many favorites including Apple pie, Cherry Cheesecake, Creme Brulee, Brownie Pie and Pecan delight. It tasted like a sweet slice of fall!
            Later in the evening we entered into the pub quiz. We competed against all other diners ranging in age and knowledge. We did not fair so bad either, coming in third place with the temptation for winning a few pounds or a bottle of wine. Beyond the prize though, it was a way for us to extend our evening and enjoy each other’s company.
One of the wonderful clocks
decorating this inn.
Groups of clocks hang together as a
symbol of the passing of time born
in this cozy inn.
A barometer clock. These are
beautiful and historic telling
time and temperature.


            We finished the night off by strolling into the inn’s well-known bowling alley. This spot is an antique all on its own. Wooden floors strike the alleyway and cascade down the walls. Classic red and white striped ball pins are aligned at the end of the alley in a perfect handmade triangle. The bowling balls match the age of this alley as they resembled big and small rounded stones missing the finger holes found on the perceivably modern bowling balls. I really enjoyed the classical feel of this place- the fact that we manually set up the ball pins for each other and rolled the balls on their belt. The 1950’s music humming in the background delved this image of the 1950s retro bowling alley even deeper in time. After much playing around, we decided to head back through the dining room and call it a night.
A real antique bowling alley! The wooden alley way and sturdy bowling balls create an image of the old school bowling alley and place to enjoy the company of friends.
            This inn is one I hope to revisit again. My friend’s and I plan to make this place a tradition. The Sheep Heid Inn is also a spot I plan to take all of my other visitors to Edinburgh for the true Scottish experience. As a sweet humble abode tucked away from the city center and hidden beyond the mountain, it is the perfect place to escape into the wonders of Scotland. In this dwelling, we can rest from our busy lives abroad and simply appreciate the traditions of Scotland and the value our time spent here. As we headed home, we walked past Arthur’s Seat. On this stroll, I cherished the essence of this stoic cottage tucked by the mountainside. I found myself envisioning past visitors to this inn throughout the centuries. Each traveler set along a journey and bringing to this inn their own set of stories and wonders of the world. On my stay, I relive these and add a new chapter along this countryside tale. Edinburgh is a city born in history and these cottages inviting in the long traditions comfort me. I am welcomed in and feel right at home.

Thursday, October 9, 2014

The Highlands and Haggis

            In the highlands, nature and mysticism coexist to create a fantastical haven all to its own.  A collection of mountains whose peaks fly high above the cloud lines complement the crisp green shrubs and stalky pine trees. I found my nostrils craving to breath in what seemed as if Mother Nature’s very own breath. The highlands were possibly the most breathtaking place I have ever seen, and for that matter might ever lay my eyes on. It is one of the few remaining places where you can feast your eyes raw beauty.
One of our first stops on Saturday morning on our way to Isle of Skye. The greenery and and mountains extend for miles meeting the cloud lines. To the right is a loch that resembles none other than the map of Scotland!
            Friday morning we left for the tour and headed, if quite possible, farther north. As we made our way form the lowlands of Scotland towards the highlands, apprehension of the cold and rain sunk in. Nevertheless, we lucked out and were graced by sunshine almost everyday. Sometimes, I almost think that these mythical ferries and creatures famously inhabiting the highlands are the mastermind’s behind its fickle weather. What appears as rain is merely an isolated shower unknown to the cattle 100 meters ahead. To truly appreciate the nature of the highlands, you have to be able to be outside and smell the sea salt air and pinelands, feel the contours of the shrubby and walk along ancient paths. It is from this that your mind truly absorbs and wanders on its own path in the highlands. Evermore, our tour guide was, in essence, a transcriber of Scotland’s complex and mythical past. He truly knew the local legends and history, so each adventure was accompanied by animated telling’s of local ferries and creatures alike set along the most desirable sights at every excursion.
A beautiful waterfall int he highlands! I loved the green and
yellow hues of the grass and light lavender flowers.
            Not only was our tour guide full of energy, but also our entire group was just as excited as I was to explore the highlands. My friend and I met two girls, both from Australia, who we ended up spending the majority of our highland experience with. Together, we explored all the excursions and shared stories of home and our travels abroad. Back at the hostel, we spent the nights in the pub with our group and even tried a traditional Scottish dish Haggis-stuffed chicken! One of my favorite aspects of traveling abroad, which each trip seems to share, is the opportunity to experience all of these adventures with newfound friends. In turn, not only do I learn about where we set out to explore, but also begin to understand their very own slice of the world. To where and in what context is always a surprise, but one that I welcome, and know will accompany every journey abroad. While I may not see my Australian friends for some time, the prospect of maybe, and moreover the memories we shared are always there. That is the nature of studying abroad. By learning about life in other pockets of the world, I can begin to reflect on my very own thoughts and experiences.
Waving the Scottish Flag on the Isle of Skye! It was the perfect sunny day to gaze out onto the mountaintops and see their reflection in the still of the loch.

Amazing views from the hilltop of The Old Man of Storr.
Each direction I turned, I gazed off onto an entirely fresh
palate of sea blues and fresh greens.
            Some of my favorite stops along the trip were a mountain at Isle of Skye, Loch Ness and the seaside town of Portree. Each place had its own special curiosity, but shared richness in the highland’s nature and culture. On Saturday morning, we made our way to Isle of Skye passing by cascading mountains and crossing the bridge to Skye. On Skye, we hiked various mountains and peaks stopping to enjoy the views and crisp air. There is one particular excursion that I gravitated to. Midway through our exploration of Skye we stopped at a mountain that many travelers, such as ourselves, hike. This mountain stands as a focal point on Skye graced by a peculiar distinction. On the right of the mountain two sharp peaks stand bright and tall. One a bitter
taller than the other, but both enjoying their very own contours and crumbles of the rock. On our hike, we walked halfway towards these peaks, as making our way fully up the mountain would have been quite an extensive journey for a large group lacking proper hiking equipment. Once we made our way up the various twists and turns, we rested upon a green hilltop that looked out onto the subsequent mountains and lochs of Skye. This is nature at its origins- calm and serene among the land. It was as if I was looking out onto world’s end, but an end that seemed to extend into an abyss of mountain, sea and sky. While the views were exceptional along this mountaintop, one of the main factors I really enjoyed were the stories woven into these cliffs. This mountaintop is known as The Old Man of Storr. Isle of Skye is well known for its ferries and Elephant, the king of these ferries. They are known to play tricks on the townspeople and the source for much of the magical brewing on the island. The story goes that there was an old couple who would come everyday to enjoy these same we had looked out on. Here, they would tell stories about their past in. However, they were becoming too old to make the climb and decided this would be their last time savoring the view. Elephant and his ferries so enjoyed the stories this old couple told that he offered them the opportunity to eternally enjoy these views they had been enjoying throughout their lives. Elephant proceeded to offer this couple the opportunity to gaze onto these views for eternity. Puzzled at the mysticism of this offer, the old couple sat and pondered. As they took one look out towards Skye the began to head back down the mountain until at one moment their bodies started to transform into cliffs. Soon enough they were mounds perched alongside the mountain forever gazing upon the views they so enjoyed. This is in fact those two distinguish peaks alongside the mountain. After hearing about this tale, I am now graced with the face of an old man on the perched cliff and women, whose bones could no longer take the pressure and started to crumble alongside mirroring the neighboring sliding peak. This tale proved so powerful that the mountain, like many other parts of Skye is now named after this couple as The Old Man of Storr. Geography or tales who really knows, but both are the part of the livelihood of the mystifying Isle of Skye. Faces appear and shapes fold among mountain cliffs and a whole new setting suddenly strikes me.
My friends and I waving the Scottish Flag on top of the Old Man of Storr. We loved hearing the tales of the mountain and the chance take on this famous hike!
            Another one of my favorite adventures along this trip is our excursion to the seaside town of Portree. It is actually one of the last towns before crossing the bridge to the Isle of Skye and, like the island, holds its own special virtues and enticements. The village smells of sea salt and fresh caught fish- one of my favorite and familiar scents! As we ordered lunch, we passed by charming little shops inviting us into this little world located in the highlands. We sat along the harbor and enjoyed our lunch. Sea salt smells and anchored sailboats paint portraits against a background of ocean and mountain cliffs. The buildings alongside the town were stucco buildings decorated in pretty pastels and blanket whites. It was as if an artist found inspiration for a seaside village and transformed it into this town. I was actually quite surprised to find such a quaint fishing village in the highlands. My preconceptions left me with an image of countryside cottages and grazing cattle along hilly mountaintops. Nevertheless, it was an excursion well received and one bringing me back to my enjoyment of the sea!
The perfect place to enjoy a seaside lunch! We could smell the fishy sea salt air as we ate. Yum!
The famous and beautiful Loch Ness. If only Nessie had
woken up for a Sunday morning greeting.
            One of my other favorite stops was Loch Ness. The iconic loch is known for the tales of the Loch Ness monster, Nessie. Beyond the stories, though, is a valley of mountains that extends along this endless body of water. This is one of the four lochs and is so big it is actually thought that the entire world’s population could fit in it ten times over! While it may be large, its features are well defined and culminate a distinct sense of natural beauty that is almost incomprehensible to the human eye. I found myself gazing at the aligning mountains fixating upon this loch. The first day we arrived, we passed by Loch Ness. However, it was rather late at night and my mind was left to sort through my own Loch Ness fantasies and the eerie slices poking between pine trees. I was left with a depiction based upon urban legends, which although fantastical does not do justice to Mother Nature’s mystifying beauty here. Continuing along the spooky and dim-lit road, we passed by a local town named Drumnadrochit. I cannot seem to rid this name from my brain- I simple love it! I feel as though I am singing a special Scottish tune while saying the name. Apparently, I am also not the only one. It is also the hometown to one of the Simpson characters. In one episode, this character travels back to Scotland, dresses in traditional Scottish attire with his bagpipes and head down to Loch Ness for a lovely conversation with Nessie. If only this was my reality. Sunday morning, we went on our true exploration of Loch Ness. We stood at what appeared as the focal point of the loch. The mountains and pine trees patterned the background of the loch. Together, they focused inward creating a central place where this body of water, greenery and rock cascaded to some timeless mythical virtue ahead. As we walked to one of the most amazing views of the loch, our tour guide attempted a little morning adventure. We were to summon Nessie, but by doing a chant that more readily resembled Michael Jackson’s thriller. Quite the morning site, especially since our tour guide was wearing a kilt. Nonetheless, if there was one way to wake up Nessie on a Sunday morning that was it! I think all Loch Ness explorers can’t help but hope to feel the ripples in the loch and see the emergence of Nessie. Such creature is left to imagination of our minds alone. Loch Ness is a haven of mythical tales and an aspiration to one-day share a moment with Nessie. Until then, I think I will enjoy the view.
So much happiness on the trip to the highlands! The sights, the smells the stories everything was just amazing.

Sweet little Harry Coos! I couldn't believe they actually moo too!
Amazing views of Scotland on the Isle of Skye! It really is a like looking into a mythical world.
The highlands certainly hold a very special place in my heart. It was a chance to explore a region that houses so many of my very own interests and an opportunity to learn about the country in which I am studying abroad. It is not everywhere you can see the adorable Harry Coos, while also standing on the battleground of ancient clans and Celtic groups. One does not have to travel far to experience adventure and fantastical sights. It exists in my very own backyard of Edinburgh and up in the highlands. I envision routes of exploration living in all pockets of the world. Sweet smelling baguettes warm the cool fall air in Paris and crushed candy canes snow at a Christmas Feast in New England. I hold the key to open the door and unlock a world of adventures. Oh, the entry to exploration! 

Monday, October 6, 2014

Edinburgh Family Weekend

            Last weekend my sister and dad came to visit me in Edinburgh. After moving Lauren into LSE, they took a quick trip up north to visit me as well as my dad’s friend. Not only was I greeted by my family, but also one of my friend’s from University. Julie is studying abroad in Paris and popped up to Scotland for the weekend. In just a few days we explored Edinburgh and had a chance to reminisce on memories back home in the states.
            Over the course of the weekend, I took Julie down to Cowgate to get a true experience of the Edinburgh bar and pub scene. I introduced her to my friends from Edinburgh as well as meeting some native Scottish lads. On Saturday, we met up with my sister, dad and my dad’s friend for a lovely tour of the castle. My dad’s friend is rather old and has lived in Scotland his whole life. I loved hearing his perspective on Scottish history.
Edinburgh Castle! The castle is perched on a hill overlooking the city. The view is quite profound from all parts of Edinburgh and only intensifies as we climb up to it.
My sister, dad and I at the top of the castle. In the background
you can see both the city of Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat!
Julie, Lauren and I holding a famous sword at one of the
 museums in the Castle Quarters. I really loved learning more
 about the history of Scotland and the city I am studying in.
           I really enjoy having visitors because it is truly a chance to explore Edinburgh amid a busy school schedule and traveling. All of my visitors welcome a weekend of adventures in Scotland. This weekend proved to be the perfect chance to see the castle. I really enjoyed the winding cobblestone streets and stone buildings that progress to the hilltop of the Castle. As we climbed the fortress each stone building was protected by winding walls and stone carved knights and swords. The higher we climbed, the more amazing the views were. Amid the varying castle constructs, we explored the museums- each offering a new onset to Scottish history. After absorbing all the different components of the castle I could really imagine life in medieval Scotland. One would look out the castle, peer onto the city of Edinburgh and the cascading hills and be back in the 13th and 14th century. That is something I have really come to appreciate in this city. Edinburgh’s rich history survives in castles, shops and street squares as a reminder for a very eventful past. We continued one of Edinburgh's sweet cafes, The Elephant House for a nice cup of coffee. Julie and I actually went here earlier in the day for breakfast. We split the traditional Scottish breakfast, which of course, included Haggis. This was my first taste of Haggis as well, and something I think intrigued both our taste buds. The taste was definitely unique, but nevertheless worth a try. On our second trip back to the cafe, we planned the rest of our adventures for the day which were sure to be exciting, which The Elephant House, would include some Harry Potter stops.

Julie and I in front of Tom Riddell's gravesite at Greyfriar's
 Graveyard. The Elephant House looks out onto Greyfriar's Graveyard.
I could see how J.K. Rowling would have transformed so many
elements of Edinburgh into the inspiration for the Harry Potter novels.
Julie and I both have a fascination with Harry Potter. Being that J.K. Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books in Edinburgh, and rather the first novel in The Elephant House, I wanted to make sure we saw some of the iconic Harry Potter stops on her visit. We went to Greyfriar’s Graveyard, where to see the gravesite that inspired two prominent Harry Potter characters, Tom Riddell and Professor McGonagall. Additionally, we climbed the winding street of Grassmarket and into AHAHA! This street is thought to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. The store, AHAHA! is supposedly the basis for The Weasley’s joke store. Both Julie and I enjoyed visiting the sites that inspired J.K. Rowling to write the Harry Potter series. Edinburgh is a city full of history and magical exploration, from which I can see inspiring so many writers to produce amazing literary works.
          
The amazing views of Edinburgh on top of Arthur's Seat. The tops of city buildings, rolling hills and sea unite in some of the most amazing views I have ever laid eyes on.
Lauren and I walking down Arthur's Seat back towards the city center. Amid the shining sun and the fresh air we shared stories of life abroad and memories form home.
Lauren and I on top of Arthur's Seat. The greenery of the
hills and the blues of the sea were breathtaking.

Loads of fun in the hat shop. We even bought a few fun hats
and headpieces. Perfect for a cold day in Scotland!
            On top of all the sights, it was really nice to simply be surrounded by my family and friends. I have been so fortunate to meet so many amazing and adventurous people abroad, but it always so warming to see those closest to me. The trip did not end after exploring Scottish royalty though. Lauren, Julie and I hiked Arthur’s Seat while my dad and his friend enjoyed a cup of tea back at his house. Having done the hike before, I was once again beset by the similar awestruck expression on Julie and Lauren's faces. It was a little windy at the top, but otherwise a perfectly sunny day to accompany a hike up the mountains and a stroll through the hills. We also explored the many wonderful coffee shops, boutiques and restaurants tucked away in Edinburgh.  We went a little crazy in the hat shop- but when in Edinburgh, bundle up!
Later, Julie and I went on a ghost tour of Edinburgh. On this tour you learn about the historical significance and mystifying stories that make up much of Old Town in Edinburgh. We also walked down a winding staircase on South Bridge to visit the underground vaults in which people lived during the medieval period. I went on this tour with my friends from Scotland a couple weeks back and we enjoyed its mythical exploration of Scottish history so much that it seemed the perfect way for me to show Julie what Edinburgh was all about. Afterwards, we finished the night at a pub. We met up with a friend of mine who also had a visiting friend with him and enjoyed a night of out on the town. We made our way to the winding and hilltop street of Grassmarket and eventually into Finnegan’s Bar. The bar plays live music and is always full of people dancing and singing along. There we had a ball and met people visiting from Ireland for the Ryder Cup. Together, we danced and they showed us some traditional Irish dance moves. I don’t think I ever saw them not carrying a tune and dancing along and always linking arms with us to join in. Even better, they were from Dublin and as my friend’s and I will be traveling to Dublin for Halloween, it was a great opportunity to learn more about the city and the local places on our own travels to Ireland. After quite the eventful night, we all headed home. Much Irish step dancing later, it was time for bed.
Julie and I by Grassmarket Street. We poked into many shops and stores.
It was really wonderful to spend a weekend with so many friends and family. Rather, it was almost hard to say goodbye. Julie and I will cross paths a couple more times on our abroad journeys this semester.  In fact, next weekend I will be visiting her in Paris and we will also be seeing our other friends in Zeta who are abroad this semester. Our worldly excursions seem to be the perfect way to unite us all together in the spirit of adventure. With my family, it is always especially hard to say goodbye. My dad is never far and only a FaceTime call away. Possibly even a trip back across the pond with my mom over Thanksgiving break. Lauren is however, not so geographically far away at all. She is only a train ride away in London and one I will be hopping on in two short weekends. Spending some time with my sister in London will be a wonderful trip and one that reminds us of where our abroad journeys all began. Two years ago, my mom and I traveled to London to settle Lauren into a summer studying at LSE and I followed a year after. Now, this fall, we find ourselves living in The United Kingdom and onto new explorations of life abroad. I cannot wait for all the memories to unfold once again with my sister in London. Maybe, she will even come back to Edinburgh soon again. Having part of my family visit always makes me miss the rest of my family. My mom, my dad, my sisters, my brother and my adorable little pups. Thanks to modern technology, they will never be too far away. I can almost hear my pups bark on FaceTime now and my curiosity as to if they can really recognize my face and voice appearing on the iPad. Nothing is as sweet, though, as our time all together. That is when the real fun starts. That, we will save for a hopefully white Christmas back in Boston.
Lauren and I enjoying an amazing view of Edinburgh. It really reminded me of fall from the crisp air to the changing colors of the leaves.
There is much more exploration to do and sights to see. From my studies at University, adventures in Edinburgh and excursions abroad, time will certainly fly. But that is only the case because each venture is filled with the promise of joy. Tasting so many new spices of life is the element of adventure abroad. Meeting people from all walks of life and reuniting with family and friends enriches each experience into new folds of flavor. It is this firsthand experience of life that inspires me to keep learning and evolving everyday. My time abroad motivates me to see the world and the power of expanding my mind in the possibilities that lie ahead. I know my future these next few months in Europe is an adventurous and bright one. I will keep on diving in.